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Pedernales River

From Mouth of Lake Travis Upriver to ?

Friday, March 27, 2009

 

Pace Bend Park website

 

 

Around the Austin area there are quite a few dams which break up the Colorado River which runs around the city.  In Kentucky we call the areas between dams “pools” but in Austin they have names which are a little more distinctive.  I kayaked a portion of the Town Lake "pool" on Monday which is a section of the Colorado that runs directly by downtown Austin.  Well, Lake Travis is the "pool" which is dammed (by Mansfield Dam) on the northwest side of the Austin.  This lake would get me access to the Pedernales River.

 

The Pedernales (pronounced “per-den-ah-less” - not “ped-er-nails” or ped-er-nah-less) had intrigued me.  I’d looked into it a bit and found that it was supposed to flow fairly near to where my parents lived so I thought it might be fun to see if I could explore the area without having to drive too far.  Unfortunately, there was no put in nearby.  I thus chose to put in at a ramp in Pace Bend Park on Lake Travis which was not terribly far away.  Well, I’ll tell you that the experience I was to have would be a little more exhilarating than I'd expected!  In fact, it would be a test of endurance which would bring me my first encounter with hypothermia.  I thought I’d get a jump on the kayaking season by setting off for warm, sunny Texas.  I must have brought some of the northern cold down with me! 

 

The day began with a drive out to the park with my mom who had graciously agreed to drive me to the ramp and pick me up when I was done.  When we arrived we met some guys putting in a powerboat.  They assured me that I would not make it to where I had hoped to go – at least to the TX71 bridge.  The Pedernales was just too dry.  These guys were interesting.  They built boat docks.  It’s always interesting to find out that there are jobs out there that you'd normally not think about – and super specialized too – like building docks.  Yet, that’s what these 2 did for a living.  They said that they would build their docks on land and then float them to where they ultimately needed to go.  It reminded me a little bit of what the flat boaters did back in the day on the Kentucky River.  They’d load their wares up on boats or rafts, wait for spring to bring the high water and then float the wares downriver – many went all the way to New Orleans.

 

At any rate, I waved goodbye to mom and off I went.  It was nice when I set off, but I knew that there were supposed to be 25 mile per hour winds coming later in the day.  I'd thus brought a borrowed jacket with me just in case (I’d left most of my colder weather gear at home believing that I wouldn’t need it in warm Texas).

 

Starting off you’ll immediately notice that the guys I ran into must have a pretty lucrative business.  There were many docks visible and there would be houses dotting every stretch of shoreline that I would pass on this day.  The lake is therefore not much for privacy, but it is still very pleasant.  Some of the houses are absolutely unreal, too – so big that they look like entire complexes instead of just single dwellings.

 

To get to the Pedernales I headed left when I departed from the ramp (or up the Colorado).   Both sides of the river/lake have rocky slopes down to the water at this point, with left side being the one with all the docks.  Each one of about 30-40 of these had a green roof and I wondered if this was part of a separate neighborhood.

 

 

 

I took plenty of pictures of the right side since I'm a such fool for rock formations (the second picture was taken on my way back with the water a little more choppy).  This side seemed to be less developed because the park grounds and this would remain the case for about another mile or so.  There were also some pleasant little coves and I'd pass the only powerboat fishermen I’d see on the day in one of these.

 

 

I reached the mouth of the Pedernales at about the 2 mile mark (total guesstimate) and headed up.  There were plenty of boat ramps visible once I did, most of which were probably just for the private residences.  Also at the mouth was a sign for a fuel and ship store that announced it was opening in July of 1993?

 

Upon entering the river I noticed a ton more amazing houses along the shoreline and atop the hills.  However, I’d also notice just how low this river was!  It was quite apparent!  Some of the coves were completely dry, and it was very odd to see little cul-de-sacs of boats and docks on dry land!  There was also a “ Camp Pedernales” at one point but it didn’t look like there was any activity here.

 

 

 

 

 

It was after passing the camp that the wind began to enter the picture.  It really started to carry the kayak upriver as if I was on a little current.  This current floated me past many more dry docks and boats and further on it took me past some longhorns grazing on some farmland by the waters edge.

 

 

When I made a left turn in the river just past this point I began to look for the TX71 Bridge.  I figured it had to be fairly close, but I wouldn’t quite make it there today (I found out when we drove back that I was about a mile away from it).  Just as a reference, I’d reached a point where I saw a couple roads meandering up a hill in front of me and I had just passed a power line (I could see a tower for a separate set of lines in the distance).

 

Anyway, at this point I was running out of time to get back and I had to take the wind into account.  I would make it back before dark, but it would take me a good amount of time as the return trip turned out to be quite a test of stamina and resolve.  The first 1/3 of the way back I was directly fighting those 25 mph winds – I was headed right into them.

 

 

 

At times it was really tough not to get discouraged, as I was hammering out the paddling and still getting nowhere.  Anyone watching me from one of those houses atop the hill would have been quite entertained in watching what was, at times, a seemingly futile effort.  In fact, if I stopped paddling or even slowed down in the least I’d float right back upriver!  It was pretty crazy.  The last part of the trip was fun though, because I was practically skimming along the water with the wind.  In fact, it was like paddling along on class 1 whitewater.  I’d just catch the waves and float on along with them.  It was nice to give my shoulders a break!

 

When I got back to the Colorado it was downright exhilarating.  I wasn’t going with or against the waves – they were coming at me from the side!  When one came it would hit me from the left, so the left side would rock up with the crest of that wave and then head back down before the other one came up.  What I’d have to was to hammer into the second wave with my paddle while coming down from the first in order to prevent too much water from coming into the boat (and possibly to keep the boat from going over).

 

The problem with all these efforts, of course, was that while I was certainly having fun at times I was forgetting that it had been getting much colder.  I simply had too much on my mind to think it and I'd not put on the jacket I’d stowed in the back hatch of the boat.  In fact, it didn't seem to be that cold when I was on the water because of all the energy I was expending.  The problem would arrive when I got out of the boat!

 

Anyway, I’d previously called my mom to see if she could pick me up and both she and my dad were there when I arrived back at the ramp.  Problem was, I’d phoned way too early!  I hadn't expected to have as much difficulty as I did and by the time I got back they’d been waiting ½ hour!  I felt really bad.  It was truly nice of both of them to have come out though, and I was especially thankful because when I got out of the boat I immediately started to get quite chilled.  In fact, by the time I got my gear up to the car I was shivering uncontrollably.  Thankfully, dad helped me secure the boat down on the car while I asked my mom to turn the heat in the car on full blast.  My poor parents!  They helped me nip the hypothermia in the bud, but they had to deal with a real sauna on the ride back while I recovered – they weren’t cold at all!  This was a great trip all the same and one I’d like to try again – but in warmer weather and higher water!

 

DIRECTIONS:

 

From the western side of Austin, we took TX71 West to RR2322, which we then went north (or right) on and kept heading straight.  This road basically runs on a peninsula for Lake Travis, and you’ll eventually reach a park entrance.  Admission is $8 for everyone but seniors (who get in for free).  The ramp is a little way down on the left.