Destress Outdoors

Ohio River

Robert Byrd Dam (Mile 279) to Gallipolis, OH (Mile 269.5)

Tuesday, August 17, 2012

(Navigation Charts 153 - 155)

I started out very early today with a desire to explore not only the Ohio River but also the side streams in this section. The problem, I'd find out, was that quite a few of the side streams were navigable. I knew about Raccoon Creek, the longest creek in Ohio, but I also found some others. Teens Run lies just upriver from the Robert Byrd Lock and Dam, Crab Creek is just across from Raccoon Creek at mile 276 and the Chicamauga Creek enters at mile 270 directly beside Gallipolis. Well, even with Teens Run unavailable and a bypass of Crab Creek due to proximity/privacy concerns it still took me 12 hours to complete this run. I’d love to see one more ramp out here, perhaps just upstream of the dam!

Anyway, I paddled on down to the Robert Byrd Lock and Dam to begin. This structure was built in 1937 with the lock chambers being re-done in 1987 to make them larger. You can still see the original chambers if you look at the structure now, but building the new ones must have been quite a challenge! It appears as if they either incorporated an island into the new lock structure or they made an island because the river essentially splits here, with access to the lock being on the West Virginia side. UPDATE: I recently received an email from a kind gentleman in Gallia County named Craig. He states that: "Before they built the new locks the support buildings were on the WV side and quite visible as many of the others are. But when they built the new locks they actually cut a new channel on the WV side widening the river considerably, thus demolishing the old buildings. If you look at your 'comprehensive view' photo, the island is actually the old shore line and ran pretty much right where you took the photo form. They did this to eliminate a sharp left turn as you came out of the locks southbound." Thank you Craig!

All of this makes for an area so vast that I simply couldn't get good, comprehensive pictures - especially given the cloudy day. I first arrived on the lock side, but I didn’t want to get too close to the chamber lest I inconvenience the lockmaster into thinking that I wanted to come through. I didn’t. Thus, I got up to the “Arrival Point” mooring cell near the Ben Lomond Light and Day Marker at mile 277.5. I then went around the back of it to take my pictures and followed that with a very quick and careful paddle over to the Ohio side of the river after judging the current. Today the wind was blowing upriver at a solid clip so I had a little leeway. The first photo below is from arrival point…

And here’s a comprehensive view of the area from the middle of the Ohio…

When I got to the Ohio side I got a Teens Run disappointment. I'd wanted to paddle in, but the mouth was just beyond the restricted zone! I couldn’t explore it (or at least bring myself to violate the zone). There was something else though… There used to be an old lock and dam structure here just upstream from the new one – old #26 - but I found no trace of it! I’ve passed these before but I’ve always been able to see at least some hint of what used to be. In fact, most of these locations still have the old lock houses up on the shore, but such was not the case here. The only clue you’d have is a little lane off Ohio Route 7 called “Old Lock 26 Road”! My eyes met with the scene below at about this point.

Below are some more pictures of the dam from this (Ohio) side of the river. You can still see the old lock gates to the left in the shots below…

…and I’ve got to include a shot of the rolling hills of West Virginia in the background here, but at one point on the Ohio side you might just notice one of the coolest little hunting structures you’ll ever see on the water. I’m reluctant to include a picture without permission from the owner, but if you’re out here you’re bound to see it.

Anyway, when I reached the mouth of a little stream at mile 277.5, I began referring to it as my “Teens Run consolation prize”. This is actually Burrel's Run and it lies directly across from the Ben Lomond Light and Day Marker. I paddled in 1/3 mile before a wire fence informed me that it was not desirable for me to go on! This stream was incredibly beautiful, though, running as it did through scenic farmland with banks of colorful wildflowers.

Emerging from the creek I stopped to take in my surroundings at mile 277.5. When you’re out here you’re really in a wilderness of spectacular farmland which stretches all around you...

Notice in the picture below how the land extends out from the shorelines on each side as if it had fingers stretching over the water? The finger jutting out from the right is followed by one that comes from the left. That tells you that the river is about to make a right curve. Following that, you can make out another finger on the right – the river is then curving left even further up. Do you then see the land behind it? That stretch of land is where you’re bound - Gallipolis! In fact, if you look even further into the distance you might see that the river is making another left curve waaay up there toward Point Pleasant - you can see for nearly 12 miles!

Anyway, a couple more streams come up at mile 276. The aforementioned Raccoon Creek is on the Ohio side and it's said to be 114 miles long. I’ll have to do a separate set of journals on it sometime, but today I got in about a mile before I had to turn back due to time constraints. Turns out, I could have gotten up about 6 or 7 more miles before I would have been blocked by a dam up near Northup, Ohio! Note, however, that to the left of the mouth you’ll see what looks like a spectacular farm. This farm seemed to be playing peek-a-boo with me as I could only see it in fits and starts through the trees.

Paddle further in and you’ll pass under a bridge for Ohio Route 7 which follows along the river quite closely in this section. After this, you’ll spot a very green patch of land on your left. It was here that I could easily envision an old pioneer cabin having been at one time. Indeed, I did see a few really old stone steps down by the water here.

The rest of the stream was lined with quite a few dwellings and so I felt a little intrusive as I paddled. The heron below didn't seem too bothered by my presence, however...

Once I'd emerged from Racoon Creek I noted Crab Creek over in West Virginia. However the banks of this one were so lined with recreational vehicles that I didn't even paddle in. Perhaps this was for the best given my time constraints today. One more word about the streams in here. There were six more between this point and Gallipolis (excluding the Chicamauga Creek that I’ll discuss in a moment). None of them were paddle-able but they included: Sardis Run, Fullers Run, Mutton Hollow (or Rocky Run) and Evans Run in Ohio along with the Sand Fork and Ferry Creek in West Virginia.

At mile 274.5 you’ll find a little line of houses in West Virginia near the Beale Landing Light and Day Marker and then you’ll reach the village of Clipper Mills, Ohio. Noticeable here is an old abandoned barge on the shore to go with quite a few mooring cells. The charts indicate that this was once the Mack River Terminal where a now abandoned coal mine once operated. A little further up there’s a second inactive spot - the Clipper Mills Dock Company as per the charts.

What greets you next is a sweeping right curve that will lead you back to Gallipolis, and throughout this section you’ll find some very nice homes visible up along Route 7 in Ohio. Then, when you reach the next light and day mark at mile 272 – Clarion Ripple – you might be able to spot a Marathon gas station up on shore. They should blaze a trail to this one. It might get them some business from the boaters needing supplies or refreshments!

The very pleasant curve you're on will eventually straighten out to leave you at the mouth of the Chicamauga Creek outside downtown Gallipolis. I’d paddled this first thing in the morning, all the time wanting to be as quiet as possible. Yet, upon entrance I happened to attract the attention of one of those annoying yapping dogs! I cringed as I went along hoping that the dog wouldn’t wake any neighbors who might still be sleeping! Don’t get me wrong – I like dogs - but in this age of silencer collars I don’t know why people with skittish, bark-at-everything dogs don’t put one on their pet out of consideration for their neighbors. They are fairly inexpensive and they don’t harm the dog!

Anyway, after passing the Gallipolis Boat Club which is not too far inside the creek, I found the Chicamauga to be one enchanting stunner! In fact, you might be awed enough by the beauty of your surroundings to almost imagine yourself in the Garden of Eden in spots – and yes, that’s a deer in the middle of the last picture! This stream flows right around the back of Gallipolis and it actually runs through the Elizabeth L. Evans Waterfowl and Bird Sanctuary. Due to shallow water after the first bridge, however, anyone but a paddler wouldn’t be able to get in far. It's a very delicate environment and I was very careful as I proceeded, eventually getting in about a mile.

It’s a short distance from the Chicamauga back to the ramp at Gallipolis and as I paddled alongside this quaint little river town I now call home I pondered what I’d seen today. As always, I offer this experience to any who might derive some benefit from knowing what it might be like. Whether you paddle the entire distance I did today or you just get in a portion I hope you’ll find this narrative helpful.

DIRECTIONS:

This is easy. Just head into downtown Gallipolis and the ramp is just down the hill from the town park, which itself is right in the center of town. The ramp can be accessed via a little lane off First Street.