Town Lake in Austin

Colorado River

Town Lake in Austin, Texas

Monday, March 23, 2009

I’d decided over the winter to get a jump start on the kayaking season by heading down to Texas to visit my parents and get in some paddling early. It had been a long winter and I’d waited what seemed like an eternity to paddle again. This would not only be my first trip of the season, however, it would also be my first trip in the state of Texas. I was really looking forward to it and the experience did not disappoint except for the drive.

I always enjoy the scenery on my drives, of course. It's the pettiness, contempt and outright hatred that I can't grasp. Those dark spirits in St. Michael's prayer that roam the world seeking the ruination of souls? They're able to use us as vessels when we don't retain our hearts and minds! Well, nobody seems capable of retaining their heart and mind on the road and as a lover of peace I seem to be a target. There are millions of people who visit a house of worship at least on occasion, if not every Sunday. Surely you must encounter some of these people on the roadways, yet you'd seldom notice it from the behavior you see. Thankfully, the Lord would reveal himself later in the day in the presence of a stranger and make up for this.

Anyway, my parents and I had done a little scouting over the weekend and we’d found a put in just off Cesar Chaves/1^st Street near downtown Austin, The little parking lot was full when I visited this morning, however, so I decided to just drive around until I found another place. Town Lake (which is actually a dammed off portion of the Colorado River) goes all the way around the downtown area so I figured that I’d eventually find a spot.

What I ended up doing was going straight through downtown on Cesar Chaves until I hit I35. Then, instead of getting on I35, I continued on a kind of “feeder road” and kept heading straight. In this way I eventually ran into the lake and also into a little boat ramp by the side of the road (there was also one further down under a bridge).

Once on the river/lake I found it to be quite windy. I thus decided to head upriver instead of downriver. I’ll generally do this because if I head downriver with the current and go too far I might run out of energy and/or time paddling back . That would invite the possibility of turning a pleasant trip into a tedious one. Nevertheless, I first headed left from the ramp and paddled for a little while under the mistaken assumption that this was the way the river was flowing (the wind was confusing things).

As I continued I found that this section of the Colorado River seemed to be roughly as wide as some points of the Ohio River. I paddled past an incoming stream (one that I didn't find the name of) and came to a fairly wide, open area with a little island in the middle. There was what looked like an abandoned factory near here too, and in looking at a map now I wasn’t far from the US183 Bridge which I could see in the distance. I turned back at this point.

It sure felt GREAT to be paddling again! It just seems to awaken the spirit. It really does! When you paddle (if you’re doing it correctly) you’re using the largest and strongest muscles at the “core” of your body. The strength used is a central strength and as I paddled it felt as if I was releasing a latent energy that had lain dormant in me since the last time I was out on the water - nearly 6 months ago. Anyone who is familiar with the principles of yoga will also be familiar with this feeling. It’s a very powerful one.

Paddling back upriver, I first brushed by the side of the island to get a better look and as I did so I spied a thin little peninsula further down with a gazebo at the end...

I thought this would be a great spot to get out and take some pictures. I did so, and in the process I met an extraordinarily kind Hispanic gentleman as he came down the path toward me. He invited me to sit with him on the bench under the gazebo and we talked for a few minutes, yet I was extremely disheartened that after taking 3 years of Spanish in high school my mind was drawing a complete blank! His English was much better than my Spanish however, and I was able to garner a few things from what he said. Apparently from Vera Cruz, Mexico, he had come to America just like many Hispanics – in search of a better way of life. He was a roofer who worked 2 days a week for $100 a day - this was 10 times what he would have made in Vera Cruz and enough to make a decent living (although I know that roofing is incredibly hard and dangerous work).

We sat there for a while and he was very complimentary of this unworthy soul, yet this made me feel even more uneasy. I simply could not hold up my end of the conversation! My mind continued to draw a blank as I searched for something to say or a way to respond (although I did manage a buena suerte or good luck as I left). This simple encounter has had a profound impact on me. I really feel as if I saw the face of the Lord in this kind person, yet I really regret not being able to more fully experience the encounter due to my lack of linguistic skill. There’s got to be a lesson in this somewhere and possibly more than one. I’ll probably never see this man again, but I hope to do so in the next life and thank him for a simple, yet very meaningful encounter.

You really get a great perspective of Austin from down here on the water. It really is a great looking city! In fact, the beauty is further enhanced by what seems like miles of shoreline parkland, complete with bike/pedestrian trails. It’s beautiful, and the city in this way reminds me a lot of Washington, D.C. and Northern Virginia along the Potomac River. In D.C. the trails go for what I’d say are at least a couple dozen miles from Arlington, Virginia all the way to Mount Vernon, passing downtown D.C., the Reagan Airport and Old Town Alexandria along the way. I’m not sure how far they go here in Austin, but I’ll certainly try to find out.

Another thing I noticed heading downriver (I was paddling along the left bank) was that there were quite a few kayaks around - not necessarily on the water but definitely visible on the banks. In fact, it looked like the apartment complexes all had them as amenities for their residents and just before I passed a Joe’s Crab Shack (which is in a sweet looking location – looks like a bird sanctuary) I was able to get the best pictures yet of the downtown skyline from the water.

Speaking of birds, there were quite a few varieties visible on the day which were evident even to this avian ignoramus. As in Kentucky, I saw a blue heron, but I also saw a few swans, some egrets, and ducks of many different varieties. Some of these had dark beaks and when I startled them, they not so much flew as ran across the water! It was quite interesting.

Further down I saw some tour boats and even some swan boats. Swan boats! These seem as if they’re from a forgotten era! There was also a boat with bats painted on it along with what looked like a “spoiler” (as if on a car) fashioned as a bat! In fact, it turns out that bats are quite a fixture under Austin bridges. The Congress Avenue Bridge, in particular, it seems. This is the first of 2 bridges you’ll see here as the river curves left and under it resides the largest urban bat population in North America! Being nocturnal I didn't see any bats today but they are said to consume tens of thousands of pounds of insects every evening!

As you pass the bridge after this (the one for South 1^st Street) there will be an incoming stream on the left. It's within this one that you can find a kayak/canoe rental place according to a pair of canoeists I ran into. Looking into the mouth of the stream there’s also a lookout point on the right side that seems to be another bird sanctuary-like spot. I spotted a couple of the swans here on the way back. In fact, this is part of Zilker Park and its botanical gardens and I even spotted what looked like a line of people aboard a train - the seats were singles so that it was one person after the other. It struck me as funny to see all the people running, walking and biking on this trail and then to see a train on it.

Right across the lake from this was another sweet looking lookout point. It was fashioned like a gazebo, and it was complete with a bench and an overhang canopy of wisteria. What an incredible spot to rest and catch a nice tranquil view of this river/lake!

Still further down on the same (right) side you’ll presently come to a really nice looking kayak/canoe outfitter – this one is right on Town Lake and it’s very professional looking. I saw the guys up there and gave them a “nice place”! There were a ton of boats to rent here and it looked like they had a complete store too.

Anyway, it was at about this point that I turned back. I had just passed under the Route 1 Bridge as I did so. One of the shoreline spots in here on the left looked like a little tropical paradise (appropriate with the botanical gardens so close!).

I also noticed quite a few turtles on the logs in the water on the return trip. In Kentucky you can’t get anywhere near these turtles. They'll jump into the water well before you’re ever able to properly see them. Here the turtles are much more tolerant and it’s nice to be able to get some good pictures of them as they bask in the sun, sometimes “piggybacked” 3 high on top of each other!

The swans, too, were incredibly memorable! In fact, they’ll float toward you as if in greeting when you come near, and I had a couple such encounters on the way back.

I enjoyed seeing all the people too. The trails are well used, and you’ll see all manner of outdoor activity. I especially enjoyed watching a girl throw a stick out into the water for her dog to fetch, but you’ll also see families fishing together, and people walking, jogging, biking, skating or playing “catch” in the park. What a great, fun city on the water!

DIRECTIONS:

Please remember that I am from Kentucky, not Texas, so I hope that you’ll consult a map in addition to these directions. I took Route 1 to Cesar Chaves/1^st Street toward downtown Austin. I then went all the way through downtown until I saw the I35 Freeway. I did NOT get on the freeway, but instead took a right on what I believe was East Avenue and kept traveling straight down this road (which runs right alongside I35 - they call these “feeder” roads) until I came to the water. I passed by what I recall was a Hispanic/American Museum. After a short distance you’ll notice the little boat ramp.