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2008 Kentucky River

Sunday, September 7, 2008

 Dam 7 to Froman’s Branch (Mile 106.5)

 

 

Archaeology – a search to uncover and study what remains of the past in order to get a better understanding of how things used to be.  At least that’s my definition.  To me, the “past” in such regard doesn’t have to be millions of years ago; it can also pertain to uncovering something from only a few decades back.  Well, speaking to that point, I’d say that on this Kentucky River journey I’ve come to quite a few places that have had a lot of history.   Still, I might have to rank the area around Brooklyn, Kentucky as possibly the most fascinating.  The thing that gets me here is that the history is so close!  I’ve only just missed it!  For starters, just on the north side of the river at the Brooklyn Bridge, you’ll see a tunnel through a cliff which is only just visible through the trees.  This was the very first tunnel built for highway traffic in Kentucky!  There would be much more to see…

 

 

 

Getting to the ramp was confusing today, however.  I think the navigation charts had it in the wrong spot (although it looks correct on the 2014 charts).  Adding to my confusion was the fact that you’d never know there was a ramp here unless you were really looking!  Full directions are below, but as you're coming in on US68 and you near the Brooklyn Bridge over the Kentucky River there will be an old store on the south side (this was a furniture store when I came and it also used to be a restaurant called Ward's Landing).  Right after this you have to keep a keen eye out for a gravel road called Palisades Road which is on the same side (it wasn't marked when I came).  This will take you to the ramp which comes up almost immediately. 

 

This ramp once belonged to a place called the Palisades Adventures Marina which appears to have been closed for quite some time, even though an old sign I saw indicated that they used to run river cruises.  The old restaurant too, looked like it might have been quite nice when it was in business – as nice as any on the river.  There were still some attractive grounds here and a gazebo which indicated that they might have had some outside seating capacity too.  This must have been a classic!

 

Meanwhile, across from all this is a fenced in area that covers up a cave in the rock.  Incredibly, there used to be a gas station and convenience store here called the Chinn’s Cave House!  The store was in the cave!  You can only see the ruins by the side of the road now, but I've seen old post cards online showing what it used to look like.   What an incredible place this must have been!  In fact, this whole area is positively fascinating!  I'd give anything to have seen it 50 years ago, yet it now has the feel of a once thriving but now forgotten location - something that only adds to the intrigue! 

 

When I came there was an interesting, half finished building at the ramp which typified this.  It looked like it was meant to be a house but I’m not totally sure.  It had 3 stories and it was obviously meant to be something quite grand.  It could actually have been the Palisades Adventures main building at one time, but it has the look of something that was started with great hope and expectation only to succumb to a lack of money to finish it or a lack of business to support its continued construction.  I wonder what happened to Palisades Adventures…

 

Anyway, once at the ramp it became clear that the parking would be kind of willy-nilly.  First I had to find a level spot from which to get my boat and gear down and, like the last time, I had to park my car at an angle partially blocking the ramp in order to do this.  No problem.  The ramp seemed kind of remote.  It wasn't likely I'd see anyone in the short time I'd be blocking it…  Well, as I was coming back up, guess what?  A truck and trailer was backing down the ramp!  Impossible.  The moment was a bit awkward, and as the driver stopped I apologized to him.  Luckily he was nice, and we’d end up seeing each other on the water a couple more times during the day.

 

Dam 7 at river mile 117 is the one with the hydroelectric plant I described in the previous upriver entry, but at this time it couldn’t have been garnering too much energy - there wasn’t much water coming over the dam!  There were the 2 boats and another fisherman on the bank at the lock side when I arrived (this one has another nice beach).  I couldn't decide which picture to put up so I put up two...

 

 

 

 

On the opposite side you'll find a fairly large rocky shoal at the base of a palisade, and as I headed back downriver from the dam this palisade began to recede a little bit to let in some trees.  Conspicuous in it's absence, however, was the middle layer of this little forest.  There was underbrush along with the trees, but not too much mid-level growth.  Thus, from up against the shoreline I was able to see right through to the cliff base.  The area reminded me of the one at Wagers Bend way back at mile 222 in Ravenna, but with cliffs visible instead of farmland.

  

 

 

Roughly a mile down from the dam on the right you’ll see a rock fence by the waters edge which is interesting.  There’s also a wall made of wood.  Part of the rock fence is now submerged but maybe this was some kind of retaining structure?  Both look like they’ve been around for quite a while and the stone wall, in particular, seems to have been very well put together.  Atop the bank here are a few dwellings between the river and the Cliffside which lies not too far back.

 

At about mile 115.5 the palisade on the left will begin to recede, ushering in a line of houses 2 miles long which reaches all the way past the boat ramp to the Brooklyn Bridge.  From the road you wouldn’t even know that these dwellings exist!  They're just like the houses back at High Bridge – a stealth community!  I assume that this is the south side of Brooklyn, Kentucky (the Jessamine/Mercer County Brooklyn, that is – there are 2 Brooklyn’s in Kentucky).  Just past the bridge there are more houses on the other side of the river (the north side of Brooklyn?).  Once again, I noticed that a lot of these houses had boats but that quite a few also had either a kayak or a canoe.  Some had both.  I even saw another paddler!

 

Mile 114 contains the Wilmore Water Intake according to the Jessamine County Kentucky River Task Force historical markers.  You'll find these on both sides of the river here as, in addition to the water intake, this was also the point of a buffalo crossing which later became the site of the Fulkerson Ferry.  This ferry was first used and later owned by the Shakers.  Once they did own it, it became known as the “Lower Shaker Ferry” while the one back at High Bridge became the Shaker Ferry proper.  Very enterprising, these Shakers!  They also once had a warehouse here on the left side.  Also note in the picture below some of the palisades you'll pass under in this section.

 

 

At the Brooklyn Bridge (mile 113) I saw another marker.  This would be the last one, however, as I was to enter another county after this.  I’d miss these markers!  The reader will again have to bear with my naivety on river history, but I’ll do my best.  (I did, by the way, win an auction for a book called “The Kentucky” by Thomas D. Clark.  It was written in 1942, and I’m hoping that once I’ve read it I’ll have my river knowledge bolstered.)  Anyway, the marker was used to point out the location of the old bridge which was once reached by going through the tunnel I mentioned at the beginning.  That one was used until 1955 when it collapsed.

 

 

 

The shoal immediately downriver from this point was known as Singleton Landing.  Yet another ferry (the Cogar Ferry) operated here.  It sure seems like there were a ton of ferries on the river, doesn’t it?  At first this seemed odd to me, but I eventually came to realize that these were the only ways to get across the river way back when.  The people who ran them charged tolls to make a living, and there were other businesses that sprang up around them to support the needs of the people who came through.  Sometimes there was even more than that – this particular spot once had a meat packing facility!

 

It looked like a fairly easy climb up the bank to get to the bridge tunnel here so I tried it.  I didn’t quite reach it, but the side jaunt did provide a good break and stretch period.  There were trails up along the riverbank too.  I wondered how far they went…  For that matter, how far down this river could you actually hike???  I know that the Sheltowee Trace touches along the river up in Heidelberg near where I'd put in there.  Very interesting…  Coming back down to my boat I spotted a little lobster (crayfish or crawdad) on a rock in the water.  The picture makes it look larger than it was - it might have been about an inch and a half long.

 

 

For the next 2 miles or so, the rock faces were receded from the river.  You could see them on occasion from different sides, but in general they'll be hiding from you under a veil of trees that in this early Fall season will slowly but surely gain more color as the days move toward October.  Next, just before reaching a power line crossing at mile 111, there’s supposed to be something called the Weeping Willow Stone House on the right.  I couldn’t quite see it through the forest.  Another mystery...   [Clarified thanks to George Dean of Jessamine County.  This was not a rock formation but an actual house.  Thank you, sir!] 

 

There's a fairly sharp curve to the right at mile 109.5 and there's a lot going on here.  There used to be a lot more.  As for the former activity, there used to be a couple mines in here on either side of the river - a fluorspar mine on the right and a calcite mine on the left, neither of which I could see.  Curses!  Drat!  Oh, well...  Egad! 

 

The Shawnee Run enters here too.  I could see that!  Yay!  It’s really nice.  I got in 100 yards.  As you look at it, it has a nice flat and rocky spot which looks like it would be a nice overlook for Mundy’s Landing which is across the river here.  The palisades, for that matter, are back too - and right against the shoreline.  Looking across the water, I noticed a gravel boat ramp.  I believe this was Mundy's Landing.

 

The sight which next greeted me on the right at mile 109, however, was completely and totally unexpected.  It was what looked like a massive, old fashioned, southern plantation house – and it was right at the shoreline!  This turned out to be the old Chinn’s Homestead.  I had to look it up - William E. Ellis to the rescue!  I’m still using his Kentucky River book all the time.  This house once belonged to the owner of the Chinn Mineral Company, the one which operated the fluorspar and calcite mines that I couldn’t see (and possibly this was the owner of Chinn's Cave House as well).  The house is quite something!

 

  

 

A half mile down from this, the Rocky Run enters on the left side.  This looked to be yet another beauty, but I couldn’t paddle in far - only about 20 feet.  The stream was lush, green and inviting and I was bummed I couldn’t get in much further, although it did look like it ended fairly quickly.  There was supposedly another fluorspar mine across from this, although I couldn't see it.

  

 

 

As you round a right curve in the river next, the Twin Chimney Rock will become visible on your left.  All but the very top was blocked by foliage when I paddled by, but this is a stand-alone rock formation which has a crack right down the middle – hence the name.  This is at mile 107.5.  After this the river will curve left and once I got to Froman’s Branch (too shallow to navigate) at mile 106.5 I decided to stop and head back. 

 

There were several turkey buzzards here that were not scared off by my presence.  They were too intent on fishing it seems.  Some of them do a peculiar thing:  they’ll sit in a line atop a log looking down with their wings spread apart as if ready to take flight at the first sign of a fish.  They do this so closely together though, that the crowding would seem to take away any advantage that this would gain.

  

 

 

I saw another large bird on the way back.  Only it's long neck protruded above the water, while the rest of it was submerged - kind of like some of the pictures I see of Nessie (the Loch Ness Monster!).  It was kind of funny.  I believe this was either a grebe or a loon but I couldn't get a good picture.  There had been other birds today too including a white goose at the mouth of Shawnee Run, the kingfisher below and a Muscovy duck earlier.

 

 

 

When I got back and headed out I took some more pictures of the area and I also stopped to look at that bridge tunnel.  There’s a short span of dirt road immediately after the bridge ends, so I drove in.  I was really careful coming out though!  There was very low visibility getting back onto the road.  The other side of the tunnel (you can’t drive through it) is even easier to access.  There’s a worn off spot on the side of the road where many people must have stopped to look at it just as I had.  This is truly an amazing location!

 

DIRECTIONS:

 

 

Take US68 to the river.  That’s the easy part.  It gets a little harder to describe after this because this city of Brooklyn (the Jessamine/Mercer county Brooklyn) is not on the maps I’ve looked at, so I’ll break it up by direction:

 

From the South:

 

If you’re coming in from the south via US68 East from Harrodsburg, you’ll want to turn right just before crossing the river.  I didn’t see a sign, but this is apparently Palisades Road.  It’s just before BJ’s Furniture Store (the old restaurant) and it’s almost directly across from a chain link fence blocking access to the old Chinn’s Cave House on your left.  Drive into this and the first left you come to will be the ramp.

 

From the North:

 

If you’re coming in from the north via US68 West from Wilmore or Lexington, you’ll want to turn left just after crossing the river.  I didn’t see a sign but this is apparently Palisades Road.  It’s just after BJ’s Furniture Store (the old restaurant) and it’s almost directly across from a chain link fence blocking access to the cave on your right.  Drive into this and the first left you come to will be the ramp.